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The Autumn Outfit

Fabric goodies I purchased for a lovely doublet and slops. I will call this one the Autumn outfit. Click on thumbnail to see larger image.

   
A chenille. For the doublet (including wings and skirting), sleeves, and slops (including panes, waistband, legbands, and codpiece.)
Gold/black cross-dyed silk dupioni. Trim, slops underlay, linings for the doublet, sleeves, and panes of the slops.

Hunter green velveteen looks really good with the chenille swatch, also. Maybe, another doublet and slops or Venetians to mix and match?

Pattern: Margo Anderson's Historic Costuming Patterns - view B with DH's choice of shoulder treatment and waist treatment.

Size: 44 with modifications.

Boning: 7mm x 1mm plastic whalebone from Farthingales.

Fastenings: buttons. I have a bunch of gold ones that look like Chinese knots.

I have been working on altering the pattern for the remake of the old faithful blue doublet. Since that project was successful, I decide to work on the pattern alterations for this doublet as well.

 
Altered front and side back pattern pieces merged to make one piece.
Altered back pattern piece next to prettied up version.

To increase the size of the neckline and to add more fabric in the shoulder area, a line was drawn on the front pattern piece tracing that was 1 and 1/2 inches from and parallel to the shoulder cutting line. The pattern tracing was cut at this line and spread apart 2 and 1/4 inches. A piece of Tru-Grid was inserted in the gap and taped into position.

To increase the torso length, 3/4 inch was added to the center back graduating to 2 and 3/4 inches at the center front. A piece of Tru-Grid was inserted into this gap and taped in to place. I merged the front and side back pattern pieces to eliminate the side seams.

   
Repeat of the altered front and side back pattern piece shown above.
Altered front and side back pattern piece used for the Fennyman doublet.
Altered back pattern piece used for the Fennyman doublet.

Notice how the alterations done to the front and side back pattern pieces this time around are almost identical to those done for the Fennyman doublet, except the pattern size used for the Fenneyman doublet was a 46 instead of a 44. The same is true of the back pattern pieces as you can see below.

 
Altered back pieces for the Fennyman doublet and the Autumn doublet side by side.
Altered back pieces for the Fennyman doublet and the Autumn doublet nested.

Another successful muslin fitting! Now, I need to make the same alterations to the view B front pattern pieces because that is what I will be using for this doublet.

The chenille fabric washed up very nicely.

 

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