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The Old Faithful Blue Outfit and Its Remake

This was the very first garb that I ever made for DH. Click on thumbnail to see larger image.

   
DH at MNRF 2005. With sleeves and his baby dragon - Doune.
DH at MNRF 2005. With sleeves and his baby dragon - Doune.
DH at Bristol July 2006.

I didn't do a diary for this outfit but Gem asked me to share some details of the doublet's construction on the R/F Forums. Here is an excerpt from the thread on Baron Doune's doublet.

I didn't do a diary for it. But there are more pictures here.
http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/elizabethangentleman.html

I used Simplicity 5574 (This pattern is now discontinued, unfortunately.) for the body of the doublet. The shoulder wings and waist tabs are from Margo Anderson's Gentlemen's pattern. The construction techniques used for the insides are also from the Margo's pattern. The sleeves and Venetians are Margo's pattern.

The navy fabric is a cotton twill. The red lining is scarlet cotton broadcloth. The flatlining (the structure inside the doublet) is a heavy weight linen with cotton fusible interfacing to give it body throughout the shoulder area and around the armcye. This is similar to the construction that goes inside of a man's suit jacket. There are two strips of bone casing on either side of the front opening sewn on the linen flatlining. The bone casing is filled with the 1/4" plastic walebone that Grannd Companies used to carry. The purpose of the boning is simply to keep the front point from curling up.

The trim is scarlet rayon cording sewn into place with a zig-zag stitch and the cording foot on my sewing machine. The Venetians are made of the same navy twill of the doublet but the fabric came from a different bolt and is a different dye lot.

Oh, I should probably mention how I do the collar. Trying to reduce bulk when working with many layers of fabric is always an issue for me. Teddy, who is a UK costumer and belongs to a lot of other lists I also belong to, suggested completely finishing the neckline of the doublet and the collar and then whip stitching the two together by hand. It works beautifully.

The Baron is of the opinion that the doublet is now too tight through the midsection. (Too much beer, if you ask me.) So I have been working on a new outfit for him. I have the doublet in a wearable condition and I just have to put cuffs and points on the Venetians. That outfit has a diary of sorts, although I haven't updated it in a while. It does show the inner construction I use in my doublets.
http://www.karen.htmlcreators.com/newgentlemangarb.html (This link is broken in the original thread but I have fixed it here.)

This outfit has been worn frequently and is starting to show signs of wear. So, I have been on the look out for fabric to remake it. Here is what I have found.

 
Navy blue linen twill
Red linen

I will, once again, be using Simplicity 5574 for the doublet remake. The blue doublet fits very nicely in the upper back but there were are few other things that were wrong with the original that need to be corrected the second time around. The first time I made the doublet, the only alteration I made to the pattern was to make the waist larger. That was really stupid because I know perfectly well that DH has a longer than average torso. If you scroll up and take a close look at the full length picture, you will notice that the doublet is rather short on DH - as in the front point of the doublet, which should end a couple of inches below the waist, ends slightly above the waist. The other problem with this doublet is that the neckline is too small and there is not enough fabric in the shoulders. If DH were to button the doublet all the way to the neck, the collar would be uncomfortably tight and there would be all kinds of neckline and shoulder stress lines showing.

To make the alterations to the pattern, I first cornered DH. Then I tied a piece of elastic around his waist and made him bend from side to side to settle the elastic at his waist. The elastic passed over his navel. Then I took some measurements.

So, here is the altered pattern. Chest is size 44 and waist is size 46.

 
Front
Back

To increase the size of the neckline and add more fabric in the shoulder area, I drew a line on the front pattern piece tracing that was 1 and 1/2 inches from and parallel to the shoulder cutting line on the pattern. I cut along this line, spread the pattern pieces one inch apart and taped some Tru-Grid in the gap.

To increase the torso length, I cut on one of the Tru-Grid lines, perpendicular to the grain line, about halfway between the lowest point of the armcye and the waist on both the front and back pattern piece tracings, spread the pattern pieces apart 2 inches and taped some Tru-Grid in the gap.

Of course, it is necessary to test the pattern alterations in muslin. This required cornering DH once again to try on the muslin. Success!

Encouraged by this, I altered the Margo's Gentleman's doublet pattern as well.

I have not cut the fabric for the remake yet.

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