Hugh Fennyman Hugh Fennyman (Another version of the same picture.) Hugh Fennyman - Closeup of upper portion of doublet.
March 19, 2006
I measured DH for his new clothes yesterday. He IS bigger than he was when I made the previous doublet and Venetians. This is a different size grouping in Margo's Gentlemen's patterns. This morning I took the appropriate pattern pieces, fused them all to interfacing and cut them out. I ran about 2 yards short of what I needed to fuse everything. So, this afternoon I went to Joann's and bought two more yards of interfacing to finish the job. I also found some of the black woven cotton fusible, so I bought 2 yards of that also. I would have bought more if I had a coupon. Come to think of it, I did not receive the latest sales flyer. Maybe it has been too long since I last had my mailing label scanned or maybe the mail carrier misdelivered my flyer. *sigh*
May 7, 2006
The Fennyman doublet.
Pattern: Margo Anderson's Historic Costuming Patterns - view A with rounded wings and solid skirting.
Size: 46 with modifications. Due to fleshy shoulders and a thick neck, a line was drawn on the front pattern piece tracing that was 2 inches from and parallel to the shoulder cutting line. The pattern tracing was cut at this line and spread. A 3 inch wide piece of Tru-Grid was inserted at this point. One inch was added to the torso length at the center back graduating to 2 inches at the center front. Oh ya, and I eliminated the side seams by butting up the side cutting lines and taping them together.
Fabric: black cotton velvet from SyFabrics.com and a black and gold brocade from Joanns for the fashion fabrics. Gold/black cross-dyed silk dupioni for the piping. 7.1 oz bleached linen from Fabrics-store.com for flatlining the back and collar. A double layer of 5.2 oz black linen from Fabrics-store.com for flatlining the front and a single layer for flatlining the skirting. Whatever woven cotton fusible interfacing I had in my stash - the black was Form-Flex. More of the black linen for lining.
Boning: 7mm x 1mm plastic whalebone from Farthingales.
Fastenings: I originally intended to do buttons but changed my mind in the end and did a hook and eye closure.
I wish I could show you how nicely the toile fits, but I was lucky to get DH to try on the toile again, let alone take pictures.
Fashion fabric pieces before final assembly.
Flatlining before final assembly.
June 13, 2006
I have been sewing. Really, I have. I failed to get the doublet done by the Olde World Renaissance Faire last weekend. Will I get it done the opening of the Wisconsin Renaissance Faire this weekend? We shall see...
The good news is that the alterations I made to the doublet make the fit around the neckline very good. Also, completely finishing the various parts of the doublet, such as the doublet body, front collar pieces, wings, skirting and then whip stitching the parts together works very well at reducing the bulk where multiple seams intersect.
Now for the bad news:
- That integral back collar makes the neckline a real PITA to do. I might not do that again. It was the cause of my first problem with this doublet. I got a little carried away with the Fray-Chek and the velvet is now damaged at the corner of the front where it meets the back seamline and collar of the doublet. Ya sure, maybe no one else will notice it, but I know it's there. This one I think I will just have to learn to live with.
- The shoulders are much too wide. I should have caught this when I fitted the muslin, but DH will not stand still and whines excessively while fitting. So, I will need to cut the shoulders back by about 1.5 inches. DH says to just finish the thing and I can fix what I think needs to be fixed later.
- The very front of the collar looks wierd. I need to take about .5 inch off the upper front corner of the collar tapering to nothing where the collar meets the body of the doublet.
- There is excess bulk at the corners of the wings. I think I could do this better. Make that, I know I could do this better.
- Even though I compared the pattern of the skirting to the finished bottom edges of the doublet, I misjudged the sizing and I needed to cut a total of 3 inches off the center back of the skirting. Now it makes the skirting at the center back of the doublet look a little goofy. See that ripple effect on the side of Fennyman's doublet above? Well, that's the kind of ripple I have at the back of the doublet. I know I could do this better, also.
- DH also lost the weight he had gained when I originally measured him for this doublet, so the doublet is now too big.
Oh, and since I have been spending so much time messing with this doublet, I have no time to mess with slops, which I have never made before. I decided to make some black velvet Venetians.
Ok, I am done ranting now.
November 23, 2007
The black velvet Venetians turned out rather nice. Here are a few pictures of the outfit as worn in 2006 and 2007:
Picture by Stormbringer A rare event. DH managed to fasten the doublet all the way up to the collar.
I will be attempting to rework this doublet to fix the things I don't like about it.