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The New Elizabethan Gentleman

Like I need another costuming project in progress!

Certain people in my household have been whining for some time that they don't get any new clothes: "You are always working on stuff for yourself and you never make anything for me." Lately, I have been hearing this variation: "I think I have gained weight and I don't think my old doublet will fit anymore." Guess who these certain people are.

Actually, I have been contemplating for some time about making some new Elizabethan gentleman's garb. My first inspiration was the Man's Elizabethan Court Costume as seen on Lynn McMasters' website. I had purchased 20 yards of black velvet when I purchased fabric for the Anne of Austria gown with the idea of using some of it to make some gentleman's garb. I also had purchased some red/black cross-dyed silk dupioni and I found the exact same trim that Lynn McMasters had used on her project. But lately I covet the dupioni and the trim for projects for me. Heh.

I watch Dangerous Beauty and Shakepeare in Love far too often. At least once a month throughout most of the year and more often during Ren Faire season. These movies inpire me to make things.

   

Marco Venier

I see a slash below his left shoulder with his shirt peeping through..

Marco Venier

Close up image showing looped shoulder tabs and shoulders.

Duke de Nemours?

I wish I could find where I found the original.

Can you see where the above is heading? And I am thinking spiral paned sleeves as per Lynn McMaster's pattern.

 
Philip Henslowe

Philip Henslowe

Full length image of outfit.

 

 
Hugh Fennyman

Hugh Fennyman

Closeup of upper half of doublet.

I found the perfect colors of cross-dyed silk dupioni to make Henslowe's outfit. Unfortunately, I waited too long to order and they disappeared. I found these fabrics to make a variation of Fennyman's outfit with some of the black velvet.

   
The majority of the doublet and the skirting. Also, a second set of sleeves if there is enough fabric.
Gold/black cross-dyed silk dupioni. Piping and slops underlay. Also sleeve lining for the second set of sleeves.

Black silk dupioni. Alternative slops underlay and for lining/binding of Marco Venier doublet and sleeves.

March 19, 2006

I measured DH for his new clothes yesterday. He IS bigger than he was when I made the previous doublet and Venetians. This is a different size grouping in Margo's Gentlemen's patterns. This morning I took the appropriate pattern pieces, fused them all to interfacing and cut them out. I ran about 2 yards short of what I needed to fuse everything. So, this afternoon I went to Joann's and bought two more yards of interfacing to finish the job. I also found some of the black woven cotton fusible, so I bought 2 yards of that also. I would have bought more if I had a coupon. Come to think of it, I did not receive the latest sales flyer. Maybe it has been too long since I last had my mailing label scanned or maybe the mail carrier misdelivered my flyer. *sigh*

March 26, 2006

Fabric goodies I purchased for a lovely doublet and slops. I will call this one the Autumn outfit.

   
A chenille. For the doublet (including wings and skirting), sleeves, and slops (including panes, waistband, legbands, and codpiece.)
Gold/black cross-dyed silk dupioni. Trim, slops underlay, linings for the doublet, sleeves, and panes of the slops.

Hunter green velveteen looks really good with the chenille swatch, also. Maybe, another doublet and slops or Venetians to mix and match?

May 7, 2006

The Fennyman doublet.

Pattern: Margo Anderson's Historic Costuming Patterns - view A with rounded wings and solid skirting.

Size: 46 with modifications. Due to fleshy shoulders and a thick neck, a line was drawn on the front pattern piece tracing that was 2 inches from and parallel to the shoulder cutting line. The pattern tracing was cut at this line and spread. A 3 inch wide piece of Tru-Grid was inserted at this point. One inch was added to the torso length at the center back graduating to 2 inches at the center front. Oh ya, and I eliminated the side seams by butting up the side cutting lines and taping them together.

Fabric: black cotton velvet from SyFabrics.com and a black and gold brocade from Joanns for the fashion fabrics. Gold/black cross-dyed silk dupioni for the piping. 7.1 oz bleached linen from Fabrics-store.com for flatlining the back and collar. A double layer of 5.2 oz black linen from Fabrics-store.com for flatlining the front and a single layer for flatlining the skirting. Whatever woven cotton fusible interfacing I had in my stash - the black was Form-Flex. More of the black linen for lining.

   
Black cotton velvet.
Black and gold brocade.

Gold/black cross-dyed silk dupioni.

Boning: 7mm x 1mm plastic whalebone from Farthingales.

Fastenings: I originally intended to do buttons but changed my mind in the end and did a hook and eye closure.

I wish I could show you how nicely the toile fits, but I was lucky to get DH to try on the toile again, let alone take pictures.

Fashion fabric pieces before final assembly.

 
Front
Back

Flatlining before final assembly.

   
Front flatlining
Back flatlining
Back flatlining reverse

June 13, 2006

I have been sewing. Really, I have. I failed to get the doublet done by the Olde World Renaissance Faire last weekend. Will I get it done the opening of the Wisconsin Renaissance Faire this weekend? We shall see...

The good news is that the alterations I made to the doublet make the fit around the neckline very good. Also, completely finishing the various parts of the doublet, such as the doublet body, front collar pieces, wings, skirting and then whip stitching the parts together works very well at reducing the bulk where multiple seams intersect.

Now for the bad news:

  1. That integral back collar makes the neckline a real PITA to do. I might not do that again. It was the cause of my first problem with this doublet. I got a little carried away with the Fray-Chek and the velvet is now damaged at the corner of the front where it meets the back seamline and collar of the doublet. Ya sure, maybe no one else will notice it, but I know it's there. This one I think I will just have to learn to live with.
  2. The shoulders are much too wide. I should have caught this when I fitted the muslin, but DH will not stand still and whines excessively while fitting. So, I will need to cut the shoulders back by about 1.5 inches. DH says to just finish the thing and I can fix what I think needs to be fixed later.
  3. The very front of the collar looks wierd. I need to take about .5 inch off the upper front corner of the collar tapering to nothing where the collar meets the body of the doublet.
  4. There is excess bulk at the corners of the wings. I think I could do this better. Make that, I know I could do this better.
  5. Even though I compared the pattern of the skirting to the finished bottom edges of the doublet, I misjudged the sizing and I needed to cut a total of 3 inches off the center back of the skirting. Now it makes the skirting at the center back of the doublet look a little goofy. See that ripple effect on the side of Fennyman's doublet above? Well, that's the kind of ripple I have at the back of the doublet. I know I could do this better, also.
  6. DH also lost the weight he had gained when I originally measured him for this doublet, so the doublet is now too big.

*sigh*

Oh, and since I have been spending so much time messing with this doublet, I have no time to mess with slops, which I have never made before. I decided to make some black velvet Venetians.

Ok, I am done ranting now.

November 23, 2007

I have decided to split this diary into separate sections for each of the outfits. The relevant parts above will be repeated in the respective diaries but since I have never gotten very far in the process the repetitive stuff won't be very much.

The diaries:

  1. The Fennyman Outfit
  2. The Autumn Outfit
  3. The Summer Outfit
  4. The Venier Doublet
  5. The Henslowe Outfit
  6. The Old Faithful Blue Outfit and Its Remake

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