HomeThe GalleryCompletedIn ProgressTechniquesLinks & Other StuffAbout

The Bodice Workshop - Case No. 1

Pattern used: Margo Anderson's Historic Costuming Patterns - specifically The Bodice Pattern from The Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe, 1st edition

Alterations needed:

  1. Narrower shoulders
  2. Thicker waist
  3. High back hip
  4. Bodice gapping at upper back

As always, click on thumbnail to see larger image.

Scroll down for more information and pictures.

  The first step is measuring.

This measuring tape has a built-in slot on the side of the case which secures the tape for accurate measuring. When the red button is pushed, the tape snugs up a consistent amount every time.

Here is a list of the measurements that are needed and guidelines on how to take those measurements. The only thing I do differently from this list is to start the underarm measurement 1 inch above the top edge of the side of the bra.

The other measurement that is needed when working with Margo's patterns is the front shoulder-point-to-shoulder-point measurement.

 

  The measurements are input into the Custom Corset Pattern Generator and the pattern instructions are printed out. The pattern instructions are used to draw the pattern on a cut-up brown paper bag. This photo shows the pattern.

 

  Based on the bust measurement, the appropriate size pattern pieces are chosen and traced out on True-Grid. A second set of front and back pattern pattern pieces, with the size chosen based on the shoulder-point-to-shoulder-point measurement, traced out on True-Grid. This photo shows the traced pattern pieces, based on the bust measurement, laid over the corset pattern.

 

 

This photo shows the back pattern piece, based on the shoulder-point-to-shoulder-point measurement, laid over the back pattern piece based on the bust measurement. The pattern pieces are merged using the instructions found here and here. Then the merged pattern is traced a new piece of True-Grid.

 

 

This photo shows the merged pattern tracing laid over the corset pattern.

 

    There are some other fit issues which need to be addressed. On previous muslins made with Margo's patterns, the upper back has gapped. Alternative fixes for this problem can be found here. In this photo, there is a new cutting line marked on the merged pattern tracing which is about 3/8 inch at the top of the center back and which tapers to nothing at the bottom of the center back. The new seam line is marked parallel to the center back cutting line.

 

  In this photo the new seam line, at the center back, has been placed on the center back seamline of the corset pattern. The other alteration that is needed is for a high back hip. Here the blue flexible ruler marks where the alteration needs to be to take care of that problem.

 

    The altered pattern tracing is cut out of a double layer of muslin. The boning placement is calculated and the boning channels are sewn. The front and back pattern pieces are sewn together. Bones are inserted into the boning channels.

 

    Trying on the muslin for fit - front.

 

    Trying on the muslin for fit - side.

 

    Trying on the muslin for fit - back.

HomeThe GalleryCompletedIn ProgressTechniquesLinks & Other StuffAbout