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The Bodice Workshop - Case No. 4

Pattern used: Simplicity 3782

Alterations needed:

  1. Shorter torso
  2. Thicker waist

As always, click on thumbnail to see larger image.

Scroll down for more information and pictures.

  The first step is measuring.

This measuring tape has a built-in slot on the side of the case which secures the tape for accurate measuring. When the red button is pushed, the tape snugs up a consistent amount every time.

Here is a list of the measurements that are needed and guidelines on how to take those measurements. The only thing I do differently from this list is to start the underarm measurement 1 inch above the top edge of the side of the bra.

The other measurement that is needed when working with Margo's patterns is the front shoulder-point-to-shoulder-point measurement.

 

  The measurements are input into the Custom Corset Pattern Generator and the pattern instructions are printed out. The pattern instructions are used to draw the pattern on a cut-up brown paper bag. This photo shows the pattern.

 

 

Based on the bust measurement, the appropriate size pattern pieces are chosen and traced out on True-Grid. This photo shows the traced pattern pieces, based on the bust measurement, laid over the corset pattern.

Alterations have already been done to the pattern to allow for the thicker waist. The black line on the front pattern piece shows the original cutting line of the front pattern piece. The whiter area shows where the overlapping seam allowances are on the two pattern pieces.

 

 

There are two things to note about this pattern.

First, the back strap is cut on the bias. The advantage of this is that the bias cut allows the strap to stretch and hug the shoulders.

Second, there has been no alteration done for the shorter torso. However, the neckline edge of the bodice pattern is rather high when compared to the pattern produced by the corset pattern generator.

 

    The altered pattern tracing is cut out of a double layer of muslin. The boning placement is calculated and the boning channels are sewn. The front and back pattern pieces are sewn together. Bones are inserted into the boning channels.

 

 

Trying on the muslin for fit - front.

Note how many boning channels were marked and sewn but only a few were utilized.

It was immediately apparent that the front neckline was too high, so excess was removed for the final fitting. The final cutting line of the neckline was 5/8ths of an inch above the dotted line marked on the pattern above..

 

  Trying on the muslin for fit - side.

 

 

Trying on the muslin for fit - back.

Once again, many boning channels were marked and sewn but only a few were utilized. There are no boning channels used on the back pattern piece but the presence of the boning channels shows where they would be if the bodice was made as a back opening bodice. If this were a back opening bodice, the two center back boning channels would be used, the next two channels on either side of the two center back boning channels would be empty to allow for the placement of eyelets or grommets and the two outermost boning channels would have boning. In other words, from left to right the boning channels would be used as follows, with X indicating a channel with boning and E indicating an empty channel:

X E X (opening of bodice) X E X

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