Workshop - Case No. 4
Pattern used: Simplicity 3782
- Shorter torso
- Thicker waist
As always, click on thumbnail to see larger image.
Scroll down for more information and pictures.
||The first step is measuring.
This measuring tape has a built-in slot on the side of the case
which secures the tape for accurate measuring. When the red button
is pushed, the tape snugs up a consistent amount every time.
is a list of the measurements that are needed and guidelines on
how to take those measurements. The only thing I do differently
from this list is to start the underarm measurement 1 inch above
the top edge of the side of the bra.
The other measurement that is needed when working with Margo's
patterns is the front shoulder-point-to-shoulder-point measurement.
||The measurements are input into the Custom
Corset Pattern Generator and the pattern instructions are printed
out. The pattern instructions are used to draw the pattern on a cut-up
brown paper bag. This photo shows the pattern.
Based on the bust measurement, the appropriate size pattern pieces
are chosen and traced out on True-Grid. This photo shows the traced
pattern pieces, based on the bust measurement, laid over the corset
Alterations have already been done to the pattern to allow for
the thicker waist. The black line on the front pattern piece shows
the original cutting line of the front pattern piece. The whiter
area shows where the overlapping seam allowances are on the two
There are two things to note about this pattern.
First, the back strap is cut on the bias. The advantage of this
is that the bias cut allows the strap to stretch and hug the shoulders.
Second, there has been no alteration done for the shorter torso.
However, the neckline edge of the bodice pattern is rather high
when compared to the pattern produced by the corset pattern generator.
||The altered pattern tracing is cut out
of a double layer of muslin. The boning placement is calculated and
the boning channels are sewn. The front and back pattern pieces are
sewn together. Bones are inserted into the boning channels.
Trying on the muslin for fit - front.
Note how many boning channels were marked and sewn but only a few
It was immediately apparent that the front neckline was too high,
so excess was removed for the final fitting. The final cutting line
of the neckline was 5/8ths of an inch above the dotted line marked
on the pattern above..
||Trying on the muslin for fit - side.
Trying on the muslin for fit - back.
Once again, many boning channels were marked and sewn but only
a few were utilized. There are no boning channels used on the back
pattern piece but the presence of the boning channels shows where
they would be if the bodice was made as a back opening bodice. If
this were a back opening bodice, the two center back boning channels
would be used, the next two channels on either side of the two center
back boning channels would be empty to allow for the placement of
eyelets or grommets and the two outermost boning channels would
have boning. In other words, from left to right the boning channels
would be used as follows, with X indicating a channel with boning
and E indicating an empty channel:
X E X (opening of bodice) X E X