Pattern used: Margo Anderson's Historic Costuming Patterns - specifically The Bodice Pattern from The Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe, 1st edition, which is meant to be worn over The Corset Pattern from The Elizabethan Lady's Underpinnings, 1st edition.
- Shorter torso
- Narrower shoulders
- Thicker waist
As always, click on thumbnail to see larger image.
Scroll down for more information and pictures.
The first step is measuring.
This measuring tape has a built-in slot on the side of the case which secures the tape for accurate measuring. When the red button is pushed, the tape snugs up a consistent amount every time.
Here is a list of the measurements that are needed and guidelines on how to take those measurements. The only thing I do differently from this list is to start the underarm measurement 1 inch above the top edge of the side of the bra.
The other measurement that is needed when working with Margo's patterns is the front shoulder-point-to-shoulder-point measurement.
Sorry, under construction.
The measurements are input into the Custom Corset Pattern Generator and the pattern instructions are printed out. The pattern instructions are used to draw the pattern on a cut-up brown paper bag. This photo shows the pattern.
There is a reason, which will be come clear later, but I am starting with the bodice pattern.
Based on the bust measurement, the appropriate size pattern pieces are chosen and traced out on True-Grid. This photo shows the traced pattern pieces, based on the bust measurement, laid over the corset pattern.
The altered pattern tracing is cut out of a double layer of muslin. The boning placement is calculated and the boning channels are sewn. The front and back pattern pieces are sewn together. Bones are inserted into the boning channels. This photo shows the muslin prior to the pinning of the shoulder seams.
Trying on the muslin for fit - front.
Trying on the muslin for fit - side.
Trying on the muslin for fit - back.